Luxury bus lets you breeze into Margaritaville

If you're headed for the Capital of Conch Republic, you definitely should think about getting into the mood a few hours early.

BY MONICA ROOS

mroos@herald.com

Whether for its flaming sunsets, Caribbean flair or every-hour-is-happy-hour atmosphere, Key West is an alluring outpost for those in need of some ''R&R'' -- remoteness and relaxation.

The United States' eclectic southernmost city -- where Hemingway set down his pen, President Truman set up his Little White House and snowbirds share the sidewalks with chickens -- has a character all its own.

But getting a taste of the laid-back island life entails what many consider a demanding four-hour drive, much of it along a two-lane highway that parts the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico.

If the passion for this open road eludes you, catching a ride on Ambiance Sun's ''purple bus'' may be appealing.

A fledging company that touts itself as a luxury bus line, Ambiance Sun offers service from Miami and Fort Lauderdale to several Florida cities, including Key West. For $59 each way ($79 in luxury class), the purple bus will get you to Margaritaville in 3 ½ hours, letting you kick back and actually get a glimpse of the mangroves, ibises and -- if you're really lucky -- endangered Key deer that you're likely to miss when behind the wheel.

COMFORT VS. COST

Other alternatives to driving to Key West are a toss-up between comfort and cost. While the Greyhound bus is cheapest ($37.50 each way on the weekend, $35 on weekdays), the no-frills bus makes several stops, lengthening the trip to five hours.

Meanwhile, airfare for the hour-long flights from South Florida can make you cringe: Round trips run $200 to $500 on weekends.

With choices like these, Ambiance Sun's daily service presents a dignified compromise that won't cramp your budget or your legs.

Founded last year by Bill Hennessey, a former American Eagle flight attendant, the bus line emphasizes customer service. While the reservations system could use some fine-tuning, the company's friendly staff on and off the bus is accommodating and attentive.

The ride to Key West has the feel of a flight, complete with occasional turbulence, airplane meal cart and attendants offering assistance and refreshments throughout the trip.

While ''luxury'' may be a bit of an overstatement, the bus trip is cushier than your average economy flight and far exceeds the comforts of a Greyhound. Refreshments and surprisingly decent meals -- served on china with stainless steel flatware -- are included in the fare. So are pillows and blankets, basic comforts some major airlines have eliminated.